CHEESE DIARY

The region of St Gallen is renowned for its Appenzeller production and until recently, tightly controlled Swiss regulations ensured cheese makers there made the famous recipe to strict standards. When the regulations were relaxed, Master Cheesemaker Walter Räss – an Appenzeller maker himself decided to make something different. In 2003, Walter embarked on his first batch of a new cheese. The result was reminiscent of the Appenzeller but used rich, pure Jersey milk and a secret blend of wine, herbs and spices. He aged it for 8 long months, so he named it ‘Challerhocker’ meaning ‘sitting in a cellar.’ Walter washes each wheel continuously throughout its maturation, producing a robust, tacky rind. The wash also contributes to the nutty aroma of the dense, white paste. Malty and sweet with a spicy finish, Challerhocker is a truly modern cheese with a loyal new following.

Comte is a type of Gruyere, similar to the large mountain cheeses made in the Alps, on the borders of France and Switzerland. Their name is derived from forests known as gruyeres whose timber was once used as fuel to heat the copper cauldrons of cheese curd. These cheeses are made at small dairies, known as fruitieres, in the Jura and are carefully graded before, during and after maturation. We select all of our Comte from affineur Marcel Petite who matures the young wheels under a cold maturation system at 1,100 metres in the old underground Fort of Saint Antoine. Only a few wheels are selected for extra maturation, up to 20 months. They are branded under the special label ‘Symphonie’ and are selected because of the development of intense flavour and supple texture which is in perfect balance. The rich milk of the Montbéliard cows that graze the natural mountains pastures, the care and know-how of the cheese maker and the expert affinage of Marcel Petite are fundamental to such a prized and rare cheese. 

This natural rind cheese is famous for its big ‘meaty’ aroma and distinctive flavour when used as a melted cheese. Made by the Perrin family in the Jura region of North East France, this natural rind cheese is famous for its big ‘meaty’ aroma and distinctive taste when used as a melted cheese. Mild, creamy and slightly sweet as an eating cheese, the characteristic flavours and aroma are enhanced by heat. In the traditional preparation of the dish, the brown rind was cut away and the face of the supple inner paste placed in front of an open fire. As the surface crinkled under the heat, the warm cheese was scraped off and served with boiled potatoes.  

The region of St Gallen is renowned for its Appenzeller production and until recently, tightly controlled Swiss regulations ensured cheese makers there made the famous recipe to strict standards. When the regulations were relaxed, Master Cheesemaker Walter Räss – an Appenzeller maker himself decided to make something different. In 2003, Walter embarked on his first batch of a new cheese. The result was reminiscent of the Appenzeller but used rich, pure Jersey milk and a secret blend of wine, herbs and spices. He aged it for 8 long months, so he named it ‘Challerhocker’ meaning ‘sitting in a cellar.’ Walter washes each wheel continuously throughout its maturation, producing a robust, tacky rind. The wash also contributes to the nutty aroma of the dense, white paste. Malty and sweet with a spicy finish, Challerhocker is a truly modern cheese with a loyal new following.

Coffee beans and lavender buds are ground together and rubbed into the rind giving the cheese notes of butterscotch and caramel. An American original. Their Beehive Cheese Company creamery sits in the forested Wasatch Mountains in Northern Utah where wildflowers are abundant in the summer. Combined with alfalfa hay and corn, the Jersey and Holstein herd produce milk that’s perfect for cheese making. Young wheels of cheese are hand-rubbed with a blend of South American, Central American, and Indonesian beans from Colorado Legacy Fine Coffee co (the owner of which is brother of cheesemaker Tim Welsh) that are roasted in different styles which give the cheese wonderful notes of butterscotch and caramel. The blend is then mixed with French Superior lavender buds and ground onsite. The mixture is then diluted with oil to suspend the dry rub. A true American original, pair with hearty stouts, ales, ciders and whiskey. 

This specialty of Piedmont is aged in traditional wooden barrels containing the grape skins of Barolo wine. In 1976, Beppino Occelli founded his dairy at the base of the Maritime Alps in the hilly region known as the Langhe in northern Italy. The alpine pastures there provided the local cows, goats and sheep with rich feed that produced incredible milk; the foundation on which Occelli’s cheeses were to be made – and still are today. Known as formaggio ubriaco or ‘drunken cheese’ this specialty of Piedmont is aged in traditional wooden barrels containing the grape skins of Barolo wine. The marinade leaves a purple stain which gradually penetrates the rind of the cheese leaving a very distinctive wine barrel flavour. The wheels are then aged for a further two months in Langa marc and Barolo wine during which time the cheese develops a rich flavour, semi hard texture and lingering sweetness. The flavours of the cheese and grapes mingle together to create a flavour that is bitey, creamy, sweet, winey, buttery and sharp all at once. 

The oldest traditional French blue cheese, made from raw sheep’s milk and matured in the ancient underground caves of the Cambalou plateau. The famous Butterfly brand now represents more than 12% of all Roquefort produced and is well known for its consistently moist ivory texture interspersed with striking steely blue moulds. Part of what makes this cheese a stand out amongst its peers is the use of a special mould grown on rye bread deep underground in the company’s caves during autumn.  

The Milawa region of North Eastern Victoria is renowned for its wine, produce and snowfields. David & Anne Brown founded Milawa Cheese Company in the historic Milawa Butter Factory in 1988, and then they set out to make delicious Australian farmhouse cheeses inspired by European methods. Inspired by Gorganzola Dolce, each wheel is turned and brushed over a 3-month maturation period, during which time it develops a natural, grey, mottled rind. The rustic exterior gives way to a semi- soft interior with a buttery character and delicate sweet blue mould flavour. 

The Milawa region of North Eastern Victoria is renowned for its wine, produce and snowfields. David & Anne Brown founded Milawa Cheese Company in the historic Milawa Butter Factory in 1988, and then they set out to make delicious Australian farmhouse cheeses inspired by European methods. Inspired by Gorganzola Dolce, each wheel is turned and brushed over a 3-month maturation period, during which time it develops a natural, grey, mottled rind. The rustic exterior gives way to a semi- soft interior with a buttery character and delicate sweet blue mould flavour. 

It takes its name from the famous 18th century French food writer Brillat Savarin and was originally created in the 1950s by Parisian affineur, Pierre Androuet. It has since been copied by many industrial dairies in France. This example from Bourgogne is unique because unlike its cousins it has ripened under a thin coat of wrinkled yellow Geotrychum mould naturally found in unpasteurized cow’s milk. Set in a wooden box which creates the ideal moist micro-climate for it to thrive . Deliciously creamy with a slightly chalky centre when young, the texture gradually breaks down until it can be scooped from the centre with a spoon close to its best before date.  

This is contemporary style cheese, in which the cheesemaker draws on specific methods and techniques to produce a generous cheese that is full of character but not too strong. The cheesemaker’s deliberate intention being to ensure the cheese could be enjoyed with champagne. Put simply, this cheese is all about cream. A luxurious creamy texture combined with a creamy flavor. Fresh cream is added to the milk at the start of the cheesemaking process, to lift the fat content and define the key characteristic of this cheese. The cheese is put through a slow acidification process and is hand-ladled into moulds, assisting the cheese to develop its sophisticated texture. At the beginning of the maturing process the rind is pristine white and almost down-like in appearance. As the cheese ages the rind flattens and develop darker wrinkles and the cheese intensifies in flavor.

The Milawa region of North Eastern Victoria is renowned for its wine, produce and snowfields. David & Anne Brown founded Milawa Cheese Company in the historic Milawa Butter Factory in 1988, and then they set out to make delicious Australian farmhouse cheeses inspired by European methods. Inspired by Gorganzola Dolce, each wheel is turned and brushed over a 3-month maturation period, during which time it develops a natural, grey, mottled rind. The rustic exterior gives way to a semi- soft interior with a buttery character and delicate sweet blue mould flavour. 

This ancient washed rind cheese was originally developed by Cistercian monks at the Abbaye de Fontenay near the town of Semur in Burgundy, but almost became extinct last century before it was revived by a local farmer in 1955. Famous for its strong smell and sticky golden rind which is washed with Marc de Bourgogne, it is packed in a wooden box to help it hold together as it ripens. When mature, it has a characteristic stinky smell, smooth melting texture and rich flavour that matches well with Burgundy, Trappist beers and even Whiskey

Matthieu Megard grew up in the French Alps surrounded by classic Alpine cheeses. Soon after moving to Australia he set up his own dairy to share the cheeses from his childhood and home country with all of us ‘down under’. In 2010 L’ Artisan Cheese – Organic was born and today, he produces a range of different styles of cheese, all of which are made by hand using selected Australian organic milk. As a third generation French cheesemaker, ‘terroir’ is important to Matthieu and so choosing organic milk to allow the best expression of that ‘terroir’ is a crucial step in his cheese making process. Matthieu personally selects the finest organic milk from family owned dairies found in the South West of Victoria – a celebrated dairy region of Australia.This milk is handled with the utmost care at every step of the cheese making process. Everything is done by hand at L’Artisan Cheese – Organic, which means every batch, and every cheese receives very special attention. Matthieu recreated this washed rind cheese using his family’s traditional recipe for the classic Reblochon de Savoie traditionally made in the Haute Savoie region in the French Alps. The small rounds are regularly washed in brine and then matured. After four weeks they develop a light orange rind with smooth paste and a mild, creamy flavour. Mountain Man is both a great table and melting cheese making it perfect when recreating in Australia the hearty, traditional French potato-based dish called ‘Tartiflette’.

 Dating back to the 18th century, this mild smooth textured washed rind cheese from the high plains of Langres in Champagne is ripened under a washed rind and is distinguished by a small indented basin in the top, which is sometimes filled with a puddle of Marc de Champagne before it is served. A red dye extracted from the rocou (seeds of the American annatto tree) is applied by hand which gives the cheese a natural orange colour.

The washed rind cheeses of the Burgundy region date back to monastic times but over the last century many have become extinct. Le Dauphin Soumaintrain cheese is a rare exception. Produced under IGP regulations, this Burgundian classic originally took its name from a small village in the green, wooded valley of Armance and this example has been selected by Will for its exceptional quality. Produced from fresh cow’s milk collected from a strictly designated region, the curds are set using traditional, slow, overnight lactic fermentation techniques introduced to the region during monastic times. The young cheese is then matured in humid cellars for a minimum of 21 days where it is regularly washed with a brine solution to encourage the growth of a blushing orange rind veiled with a thin coat of ivory coloured mould. Mild and creamy with sweet floral aromas when it leaves the dairy, the smooth surface rind of this natural, surface-ripened cheese gradually develops wrinkles and a more pronounced aroma the longer it ages. The combination is a tell-tale sign that the inside has softened to a deliciously rich texture.

Shadows of Blue begins its life when specially selected cultures are added to the creamy, farmhouse milk. The resulting curd is cut into dice-sized cubes. After gentle stirring, they are hand-ladled into cloth-lined hoops for draining. Two days later, the cheeses are hand-salted then enrobed in a fine coating of wax and placed on Kauri timber shelves in the maturation room where they stay for 2 months. Maturation under wax locks in moisture which produces a sweet flavour and creamy texture, as well as providing support to this soft blue cheese. Spiking is done through the wax, allowing air to reach the centre of the cheese and cultivate the blue mould within. Mild and creamy, this mellow blue is a good choice for those who are new to enjoying blue cheese, thanks to the limited blue mould development and sweet flavour. If portioning the cheese into small wedges, keep the wax intact for easier cutting.   

Bleu D’Auvergne was created in the mid 19th century by a farmer with a passion for cheese who combined mouldy rye bread with milk. This version is created by the third generation; family owned Société Framagére du Livradois. With four separate production and ageing facilities located in the picturesque volcanic mountains of the Auvergne region, Société Framagére du Livradois is one of the only family owned and operated companies to produce all five PDO cheeses of the Auvergne region. Bleu D’Auvergne has a spicy aroma, assertive flavour and a smooth texture. A long held tradition of the Auvergne region is to pair Bleu D’Auvergne with local sweet dessert wines

When Louis & Jane Grubb set out to make Cashel Blue in the early 1980’s, their ambition was to create a farmhouse cheese that “truly represents the outstanding quality of Tipperary grass-fed milk.” Today, more than 30 years later and in the hands of the 2nd generation, Cashel Blue® is still made by hand on the same 200 acre farm; Beechmount, in Co. Tipperary, Ireland. When young, Cashel Blue is firm yet moist, with just a hint of fresh tarragon and white wine. With age, its true character emerges, mellowing to a rounder, spicier style. The interior softens, then when the cheese is at the peak of perfection it gives up the battle of the bulge and collapses, providing a challenge for the retailer but a treat for the connoisseur. Note: Cashel Blue is named after the historic “Rock of Cashel,” a medieval castle that was once the seat of the Kings of Munster, and where lore has it St Patrick commenced the conversion of the pagan Irish to Christianity by using a shamrock to explain the Holy Trinity, giving birth to one of Ireland’s national symbols.

Since 1988, the Bongrain Cheese Company has been manufacturing this double-cream cheese. Made from cows’ milk with added cream, this modern cheese was developed from an old monastery recipe as a creamy cow’s milk alternative to Roquefort. The flavour of this popular cheese has been developed using a spe- cial selection of “designer” blue moulds which are cultured on rye bread and crumbled into the curds just before hooping. After three months maturation, the cheese develops a rich creamy texture and distinctive blue flavour.